Sunday, December 13, 2009
One of My Favorite Days in Ecuador
Yesterday I went to Chota--one of the two Afro communities here in Ecuador. I had been wanting to go since I first got here and finally made it this weekend. The community is about 3 hours north of Quito and is actually made up of 10 different pueblos. Each pueblo has around 50 households in it. I have an Afro Ecuadorian friend named Manuel who was born in Chota, and so he went with me to show me around.
When we first got there we saw Manuel's uncle right away. So he walked around with us a little bit. I wanted to buy some art, so they took us into this little room in the community where they keep crafts that people in the pueblo have made. Two men from the community also told me about the history and struggle of the Afro Ecuadorians. It was really interesting, and not exactly the same story that they taught us in the classroom (big surprise). They also told me that 60% of the people in their community don't continue school after age 12, simply because there isn't money.
We visited 3 of the 10 pueblos and during the visits I met so many really sweet, really humble and happy people. I met an older women who had been in a wreck in a bus and so can only do activities sitting because it is almost impossible to walk. But she was so content, laughing while washing clothes, watching over her grandkids. She was SO happy that I wanted to stop and talk to her. She wanted to know if Manuel was my husband and I told her no. So she asked him why not, because she had already fallen in love with me, haha. And she said even though my skin is lighter and his is darker, it doesn't even matter. Glad she thinks that way :)
Soccer is literally one of the most important aspects of life here in Ecuador. And many of the Ecuadorian soccer stars come from Chota, this Afro community. The community is so proud of them, with posters and pictures everywhere. I actually got to meet one of the players, he was really friendly. But the people also told me that many of these men go professional, make millions of dollars and then forget about their community. Chota is extremely poor, with many education and health problems. But most of the players who have made it big don't give back.
I met one woman who sells fruit by the roadside. She had such a spirit, so happy to be there everyday talking to the people, selling them food. She takes care of her grandkids and one of them has a skin disease. The medicine for him costs something like $30 a month, but that is a lot of money here and she doesn't have it. So she says that the disease will just keep progressing. Right now it's only on his face, but they expect it to spread to his whole body.
Most of the people in Chota live off of the land. They grow beans and fruit primarily and sell it to the neighboring pueblos. They are also close to a highway, so when the buses stop on the highway all the women put their baskets of food on their head and run to the bus. They get on and try to sell their food to the passengers.
It was really awesome to see all the kids there. They all were just outside playing, without adults around, not caring about what got dirty. They don't have money for toys, so they made their own--trucks, balls, volleyball courts and soccer fields. It was all so simple and it still made them happy. I saw one little boy who coulnd't have been more than one year old and he was walking around with a plastic bottle and a stick, hitting it and dancing as if it were a drum.
It was such a great day, one of the most memorable, one of the best I've had in Ecuador. When I come back I definitely want to spend more time in this community. The people were poor, working hard to be able to keep feeding their families. But they were so calm, so happy to just listen to music and work. One man told me that the community knows there are richer people who have more things, but they are ok. They are living, and they do so with such an incredible spirit.
When we first got there we saw Manuel's uncle right away. So he walked around with us a little bit. I wanted to buy some art, so they took us into this little room in the community where they keep crafts that people in the pueblo have made. Two men from the community also told me about the history and struggle of the Afro Ecuadorians. It was really interesting, and not exactly the same story that they taught us in the classroom (big surprise). They also told me that 60% of the people in their community don't continue school after age 12, simply because there isn't money.
We visited 3 of the 10 pueblos and during the visits I met so many really sweet, really humble and happy people. I met an older women who had been in a wreck in a bus and so can only do activities sitting because it is almost impossible to walk. But she was so content, laughing while washing clothes, watching over her grandkids. She was SO happy that I wanted to stop and talk to her. She wanted to know if Manuel was my husband and I told her no. So she asked him why not, because she had already fallen in love with me, haha. And she said even though my skin is lighter and his is darker, it doesn't even matter. Glad she thinks that way :)
Soccer is literally one of the most important aspects of life here in Ecuador. And many of the Ecuadorian soccer stars come from Chota, this Afro community. The community is so proud of them, with posters and pictures everywhere. I actually got to meet one of the players, he was really friendly. But the people also told me that many of these men go professional, make millions of dollars and then forget about their community. Chota is extremely poor, with many education and health problems. But most of the players who have made it big don't give back.
I met one woman who sells fruit by the roadside. She had such a spirit, so happy to be there everyday talking to the people, selling them food. She takes care of her grandkids and one of them has a skin disease. The medicine for him costs something like $30 a month, but that is a lot of money here and she doesn't have it. So she says that the disease will just keep progressing. Right now it's only on his face, but they expect it to spread to his whole body.
Most of the people in Chota live off of the land. They grow beans and fruit primarily and sell it to the neighboring pueblos. They are also close to a highway, so when the buses stop on the highway all the women put their baskets of food on their head and run to the bus. They get on and try to sell their food to the passengers.
It was really awesome to see all the kids there. They all were just outside playing, without adults around, not caring about what got dirty. They don't have money for toys, so they made their own--trucks, balls, volleyball courts and soccer fields. It was all so simple and it still made them happy. I saw one little boy who coulnd't have been more than one year old and he was walking around with a plastic bottle and a stick, hitting it and dancing as if it were a drum.
It was such a great day, one of the most memorable, one of the best I've had in Ecuador. When I come back I definitely want to spend more time in this community. The people were poor, working hard to be able to keep feeding their families. But they were so calm, so happy to just listen to music and work. One man told me that the community knows there are richer people who have more things, but they are ok. They are living, and they do so with such an incredible spirit.
Last Week of the Semester
This past week was the last of the semester. I was really busy, trying to spend time with friends and then also finish up school work. The week before was the last week of my internship in popular finance. I learned a ton at the internship, but was happy to be done with work and get back to school. This week we had to write a paper, give a 30 minute oral presentation over our internships and then we had to turn in our 20 page paper putting together the internship experience/research with what we had learned in the microfinance track. And the paper was in Spanish! So I got everything done and my professor was impressed with my work, so hopefully I come back to the States with a good GPA.
It was sad to say bye to all my friends. I met SO many awesome people on this program, and have made 5 really, really good friends. We are already planning a reunion! The semester has been absolutely amazing. I have traveled so much in this country, seen so much, been able to ask so many questions. At times I got frustrated, but overall it was incredible, the least stressful semester I've had since I started college. I have loved the experience not because everyday was perfect and wonderful, but because everyday I learned something new, something I could never learn anywhere else.
Tomorrow my best friend Melinda will be flying here from Peru. We are going to an island just off the coast of Ecuador and then will be in Quito a few days. On December 22 we are flying to Buenos Aires, Argentina to see the city, go to Uruguay and also see some really amazing waterfalls. 3 weeks and I'm back in the US!!!!
It was sad to say bye to all my friends. I met SO many awesome people on this program, and have made 5 really, really good friends. We are already planning a reunion! The semester has been absolutely amazing. I have traveled so much in this country, seen so much, been able to ask so many questions. At times I got frustrated, but overall it was incredible, the least stressful semester I've had since I started college. I have loved the experience not because everyday was perfect and wonderful, but because everyday I learned something new, something I could never learn anywhere else.
Tomorrow my best friend Melinda will be flying here from Peru. We are going to an island just off the coast of Ecuador and then will be in Quito a few days. On December 22 we are flying to Buenos Aires, Argentina to see the city, go to Uruguay and also see some really amazing waterfalls. 3 weeks and I'm back in the US!!!!
New School
The institution that I attend here in Ecuador just moved a new building. It is really beautiful and really huge, with an awesome view of the city. We had a inauguration ceremony that was really cool (but also super long). There were tango dancers, indigenous and afro music and dancers and lots of rituals. 6 or 7 people from the University of Minnesota came to be a part of it, including the Vice President of International Studies (don't worry I got a photo with her). Maybe that will be a good connection for the future :)
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Celebrate Good Times
This week was a really good week. Monday when I got back from Lima I came home to 21 yellow roses from my host mom and sister for my birthday. That night I went out to dinner with my family and of course the waitresses at the restaurant sang to me.
Thursday, all of my friends came back to celebrate Thanksgiving. My school rented out a place for us all to eat together. Most of the students came with their host families and all the staff from my school came of course. Each family brought two dishes. The directors of our program talked for a little bit, we told eachother what we were thankful for, and then we ate! The food was really great. After the lunch, one of the host dads played a couple songs on the accordian :) Then we had a dj and they played South American music, so we all danced. It was so fun, definitely a memorable Thanksgiving. I was really happy that I was able to celebrate the holiday, especially with the family I've made here in Ecuador.
That night, 8 of my friends came over to eat cheescake for my birthday. They brought me champagne and a couple other things. We had our drinks, then they sang to me and I blew out my candles. We ate and then went out to dance! I had a really good night with everyone, dancing until 3 am. It was definitely a fun birthday, being able to celebrate with Melinda in Lima, my host family and then all my friends here.
This coming week is my last week of the internship! This week I also need to finish the draft of the 20 page essay I have to write about the work I've done and the things I've seen and learned. One week from today, everyone will be back from our internships and we have another week to finish up the semester. I can't believe it's almost over already!!
Thursday, all of my friends came back to celebrate Thanksgiving. My school rented out a place for us all to eat together. Most of the students came with their host families and all the staff from my school came of course. Each family brought two dishes. The directors of our program talked for a little bit, we told eachother what we were thankful for, and then we ate! The food was really great. After the lunch, one of the host dads played a couple songs on the accordian :) Then we had a dj and they played South American music, so we all danced. It was so fun, definitely a memorable Thanksgiving. I was really happy that I was able to celebrate the holiday, especially with the family I've made here in Ecuador.
That night, 8 of my friends came over to eat cheescake for my birthday. They brought me champagne and a couple other things. We had our drinks, then they sang to me and I blew out my candles. We ate and then went out to dance! I had a really good night with everyone, dancing until 3 am. It was definitely a fun birthday, being able to celebrate with Melinda in Lima, my host family and then all my friends here.
This coming week is my last week of the internship! This week I also need to finish the draft of the 20 page essay I have to write about the work I've done and the things I've seen and learned. One week from today, everyone will be back from our internships and we have another week to finish up the semester. I can't believe it's almost over already!!
Lima
Last Thursday I went to Lima, Peru to visit my best friend from the U of M (Melinda). She is studying there for the semester at a Catholic university. The trip was really awesome but way too short. I got in Thursday night and had to leave Monday morning.
Friday I snuck into the university with Melinda so I could see what the school was like. The campus was really nice. Afterward we went to eat really good Peruvian food and walk around a little bit. That night we went to a bar with some of her friends from the program. Saturday we went to el Centro to see the president's palace and the church and the colonial part of the city which was really beautiful.
Unfortunately that day we met some guys who wanted to take us to get a famous Peruvian drink called Pisco Sour. We sat and talked with them and Melinda and I shared a drink. When we were ready to leave the manager brought us the bill of 380 soles (about $130). Melinda was in shock and we were both really mad. We decided we would pay about $30, leave and let the boys pay the rest because we hadn't ordered the drinks, seen the menu or drank much. So we tried to pay but the woman manager wouldn't let us leave. Things had been a little weird the whole time in the restaurant and at this point I knew it was a scam. The boys were working together with the owners. The boys try to bring in American or European girls who they think have money. The boys order drinks and the manager way over charges. Then they leave the bill to the girls and try to scare them into paying. Then the boys and the manager split the profits made off of the foreigners. But Melinda and I weren't going to let it happen because we knew what was going on. So we fought for an hour with them. About 6 people were yelling at us and arguing with us and when I walked forward saying that I wanted to talk to the police the woman pushed me back. Finally we left after paying part of the bill. It was really scary and I almost couldn't believe that it was happening to us. Lesson learned.
That night we went out to celebrate my birthday, which was really fun. Throughout the weekend, some Peruvians made comments to Melinda and I about our nationality. They all thought we were from Brazil which I thought was really funny. Sunday we went for a walk on the beach and later to a park that has water fountains that look really awesome because of the lights they put them with. Monday I had to get back to Quito! It was a really great trip and made me SUPER excited to travel with Melinda after the semester is over. We have one week in Ecuador together and then two weeks for Argentina. Two more weeks of school and then the adventure begins!
Friday I snuck into the university with Melinda so I could see what the school was like. The campus was really nice. Afterward we went to eat really good Peruvian food and walk around a little bit. That night we went to a bar with some of her friends from the program. Saturday we went to el Centro to see the president's palace and the church and the colonial part of the city which was really beautiful.
Unfortunately that day we met some guys who wanted to take us to get a famous Peruvian drink called Pisco Sour. We sat and talked with them and Melinda and I shared a drink. When we were ready to leave the manager brought us the bill of 380 soles (about $130). Melinda was in shock and we were both really mad. We decided we would pay about $30, leave and let the boys pay the rest because we hadn't ordered the drinks, seen the menu or drank much. So we tried to pay but the woman manager wouldn't let us leave. Things had been a little weird the whole time in the restaurant and at this point I knew it was a scam. The boys were working together with the owners. The boys try to bring in American or European girls who they think have money. The boys order drinks and the manager way over charges. Then they leave the bill to the girls and try to scare them into paying. Then the boys and the manager split the profits made off of the foreigners. But Melinda and I weren't going to let it happen because we knew what was going on. So we fought for an hour with them. About 6 people were yelling at us and arguing with us and when I walked forward saying that I wanted to talk to the police the woman pushed me back. Finally we left after paying part of the bill. It was really scary and I almost couldn't believe that it was happening to us. Lesson learned.
That night we went out to celebrate my birthday, which was really fun. Throughout the weekend, some Peruvians made comments to Melinda and I about our nationality. They all thought we were from Brazil which I thought was really funny. Sunday we went for a walk on the beach and later to a park that has water fountains that look really awesome because of the lights they put them with. Monday I had to get back to Quito! It was a really great trip and made me SUPER excited to travel with Melinda after the semester is over. We have one week in Ecuador together and then two weeks for Argentina. Two more weeks of school and then the adventure begins!
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Sin Electricidad
Last week Ecuador entered into a little bit of a crisis. Right now the country is in a season where it's supposed to be getting a lot of rain, every day or every other day. But since I got here 3 months ago it has only rained about 5 times and is sunny almost every single day. The entire country depends completely on hydroelectricity...and since it hasn't rained there isn't enough electricity. So every day for the past couple weeks, every part of the country goes without electricity for 5 hours. Different parts of each city get shut down at different times each day.
At first I thought it was just a temporary thing, didn't think much about it. But after I started talking to people I realized that this changes a lot of things for a lot of people. They predict that the country will go without electricity 5 hours everyday for another month at least. At first all the impacts didn't register for me but now I see that everyday companies are losing 5 hours of business and it is definitely hurting the workers, their families and the economy. Kids in school are without lights or computers everyday, hindering their learning. Every town is without stoplights. Quito is a city of about 2 million and when everyone is trying to get to work or get home from work, traffic is a disaster (especially with so many impatient drivers here). At night, it is extremely dangerous. There have already been a lot of wrecks, one really bad one near my house that involved a bus and 6 cars. The government is having to pay more to have police officers out 24/7 directing traffic. There are a lot more robberies and other crimes because entire parts of the city are completely dark. Not only are houses and businesses without electricity, but also hospitals. Those that don't have their own generators are also shut down each day for 5 hours.
I've asked about other sources of electricity and what I've been told is that Columbia and Peru MAY be willing to sell energy to us but that it's too expensive and the government can't afford it. So then I asked about alternative sources from Ecuador itself, but apparently these alternative sources are expensive too and the government has not invested in developing them.
So...we wait for rain!
At first I thought it was just a temporary thing, didn't think much about it. But after I started talking to people I realized that this changes a lot of things for a lot of people. They predict that the country will go without electricity 5 hours everyday for another month at least. At first all the impacts didn't register for me but now I see that everyday companies are losing 5 hours of business and it is definitely hurting the workers, their families and the economy. Kids in school are without lights or computers everyday, hindering their learning. Every town is without stoplights. Quito is a city of about 2 million and when everyone is trying to get to work or get home from work, traffic is a disaster (especially with so many impatient drivers here). At night, it is extremely dangerous. There have already been a lot of wrecks, one really bad one near my house that involved a bus and 6 cars. The government is having to pay more to have police officers out 24/7 directing traffic. There are a lot more robberies and other crimes because entire parts of the city are completely dark. Not only are houses and businesses without electricity, but also hospitals. Those that don't have their own generators are also shut down each day for 5 hours.
I've asked about other sources of electricity and what I've been told is that Columbia and Peru MAY be willing to sell energy to us but that it's too expensive and the government can't afford it. So then I asked about alternative sources from Ecuador itself, but apparently these alternative sources are expensive too and the government has not invested in developing them.
So...we wait for rain!
Sunday, November 8, 2009
La Fiesta de la Mama Negra
Saturday there was a really big festival en Ecuador in the town of Latacunga, about 2 hours south of Quito. La Fiesta de la Mama Negra originally started due to a volcano eruption. Near Latacunga is a volcano called Cotopaxi (I have pictures on my blog--I went there a few weeks back). The volcano errupted in the 1700's and destroyed the entire town. The "Virgin of Mercy" is the patron of the volcano. The volcano hasn't erupted since and the town celebrates this fiesta each year in order to thank and honor the Virgin of Mercy for that. There is a huge parade where everyone wears traditional indigenous dress which was really beautiful!!
Halloween at the Beach
As a few of you probably already know, my experience in Quinsapincha with the internship didn't work out. I ended up getting really sick and didn't feel very comfortable with my host family or the cooperative. After a few days of tears I decided that I needed to leave. It's just that I am here in Ecuador to work and to learn, and I couldn't be at my best there. Mentally and physically I wasn't healthy, so I knew that I couldn't make the most of the 6 weeks. I came back to Quito and am living back with my same host family, which I am really happy about. I found a new internship within a day or two. I am now working at Codesarrollo. It is a pretty big organization that does microfinance. It is really, really great for me because I get to learn from really intelligent people who know their work well and I also get to see the reality of what they are working with. I go out to the rural areas 4 days a week to talk to the clients who want loans or currently have loans. We see their homes, talk about their incomes, their expenses, why they need the loan, how they earn a living and finally see if they will be able to pay back. Some people want loans to put a cement roof on their house and put doors inside. Some want it to buy land and grow food or raise animals, others need more capital to buy a car for their business. It's really, really crazy when the clients tell how much they spend and earn. Most spend about $15 a month total for water, light and a phone. Some only have $5 cash to their name and the maximum is usually $100. Most of these people literally work to eat, in the most extreme sense. The one day that I'm in the office I am gathering info, working on the 20 page research report that will be due at the end of the internship.
Ecuador had a holiday last weekend called Dia de los Difuntos, where the people celebrate the lives of friends and family who have died. They eat special food (Colada Morada and Guaguas de Pan) and some go to the cemeteries. My friends and I went to the beach and spent Halloween and the holiday weekend there :)
Ecuador had a holiday last weekend called Dia de los Difuntos, where the people celebrate the lives of friends and family who have died. They eat special food (Colada Morada and Guaguas de Pan) and some go to the cemeteries. My friends and I went to the beach and spent Halloween and the holiday weekend there :)
Sunday, October 25, 2009
(Not) Ready for Phase 3
Last weekend a group of us went to a friend's hacienda (farm) about 5 hours south of Quito. We had a really great time--rode horses, saw how to grow bananas and sugar cane, hiked up to a waterfall, saw all the farm animals and also went to our first bull fight. We ate all fresh food grown from the farm. It was really nice to get away from the city for a weekend.
This week was our final week of class. I turned in a final paper for my Microfinance class and also had to give a presentation. The final phase of the semester begins tomorrow morning--the internship!
I can't believe I've been here for three months already! Tomorrow morning will be really hard! I've made some of the most amazing friends here and I am really close to my host family, so leaving Quito and everyone behind is tough. I'm doing my Microfinance internship in a small town called Quisapincha, 30 minutes up the mountain from one of the main cities in Ecuador. It's going to be a huge challenge--no one there who speaks English, no other students around, rural community. But I think I can do it and I know I'll be a better person when I leave!
This week was our final week of class. I turned in a final paper for my Microfinance class and also had to give a presentation. The final phase of the semester begins tomorrow morning--the internship!
I can't believe I've been here for three months already! Tomorrow morning will be really hard! I've made some of the most amazing friends here and I am really close to my host family, so leaving Quito and everyone behind is tough. I'm doing my Microfinance internship in a small town called Quisapincha, 30 minutes up the mountain from one of the main cities in Ecuador. It's going to be a huge challenge--no one there who speaks English, no other students around, rural community. But I think I can do it and I know I'll be a better person when I leave!
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Estadio Olimpico
This morning I was woken up by my little sister at my door saying "Bea....Bea?" She just turned one this summer and so she is learning how to talk. She only knows 5 or 10 words, but one of them is my name!!
I decided to do my internship in Quisapincha, the cooperative I wrote about earlier. I am really excited and nervous too. These next couple weeks I will be doing some research and working with my microfinance professor to prepare myself for the internship. I move there in 3 weeks. My host mom here is really sad that I'm leaving. All the students come back to Quito to celebrate Thanksgiving together so she is looking forward to that and also insists that we celebrate my birthday in Quito too.
Friday night a bunch of my friends came over to my house to have an American potluck. We were all missing American food so much, so everyone made a dish and brought it over to eat. We had burritos, chicken caesar wraps, Snickers, pita and hummus, pizza, Scotcheroos and lots of other good stuff. It was a really fun night.
Saturday morning we went to the Estadio Olimpico to buy tickets for the Ecuador vs. Uruguay soccer game. Whoever won this game advances to the World Cup in South Africa in 2010. We ended up finding some tickets for $30. The game started at 5:00 but we were in the stadium by 1:00 in order to get good seats. We had a good time waiting for the game to start, even though it was hot! We played cards and made some new friends.
The first goal that Ecuador scored was SO exciting, the whole stadium went crazy. Right before the goal, a drunk man jumped onto the fence that separates the field from the stands. When we scored, he started yelling and shaking the fence and he ended up falling. The fence caught him by the pant leg and so he was hanging upside down. But within seconds, he fell again and this time he fell all the way to the cement floor, face down. Between the fans' seats and the fence is a space about 10 feet wide and 20 feet deep. This is supposed to prevent fans from jumping onto the fence. But this man did it anyway. So after he fell about 25 or 30 feet, of course he didn't move. Two other Ecuadorian fans jumped down in order to help him and began giving him CPR.
I was worried that coming to Ecuador would make me have a more negative attitude toward the United States, but here is an example of why that hasn't happened. The Ecuadorian Red Cross took at least 10 minutes to get down there and begin helping the man. They did not have a plan put in place for situations like this and they were not prepared. Thanks to God, I saw the man move his arm so I know he didn't die on the scene. But it took entirely too long for him to get help. Also, the 2 fans that went down to help him flipped the man from his stomach to his back in order to give him CPR. This may have done damage, and if the Red Cross responded in time they could have taken care of him as they were trained.
A similar situation happened about a month ago. For some reason, a young European girl was shot here in Ecuador. She was taken to the hospital but did not receive treatment in time because they couldn't find her insurance or cash. So they delayed her treatment and she ended up dying--only because of money. I can't say for sure, but I just don't think things like this happen often in the U.S. These things made me appreciate all the regulations and trainings that are required back home.
While we were watching the fallen man get CPR, Uruguay scored! It was tied 1 to 1 and with a few minutes left, Ecuador got a penalty and Uruguay got to kick...and of course scored. So they advance to the World Cup. Ecuador has to win and also have really good luck in order to make it.
Another thing that bothered me--after the game a lot of the fans were REALLY mad. And when the team left the field the fans started yelling and cussing at them, flipping them off as if the players didn't do the best they could. I realize that soccer here is a HUGE deal, but the way that some of the fans reacted was really overboard and disrespectful. They threw plastic and glass bottles down on the press and at the players and also at other fans. It was too extreme for me and also dangerous! I thought it was going to be a really good night, but unfortunately with everything that happened it was kind of disappointing.
Ecuador definitely is still developing and sometimes it's hard to see and understand some of the stuff that happens here. But my spirits are still high and of course I'm still really happy to be in Ecuador!
I decided to do my internship in Quisapincha, the cooperative I wrote about earlier. I am really excited and nervous too. These next couple weeks I will be doing some research and working with my microfinance professor to prepare myself for the internship. I move there in 3 weeks. My host mom here is really sad that I'm leaving. All the students come back to Quito to celebrate Thanksgiving together so she is looking forward to that and also insists that we celebrate my birthday in Quito too.
Friday night a bunch of my friends came over to my house to have an American potluck. We were all missing American food so much, so everyone made a dish and brought it over to eat. We had burritos, chicken caesar wraps, Snickers, pita and hummus, pizza, Scotcheroos and lots of other good stuff. It was a really fun night.
Saturday morning we went to the Estadio Olimpico to buy tickets for the Ecuador vs. Uruguay soccer game. Whoever won this game advances to the World Cup in South Africa in 2010. We ended up finding some tickets for $30. The game started at 5:00 but we were in the stadium by 1:00 in order to get good seats. We had a good time waiting for the game to start, even though it was hot! We played cards and made some new friends.
The first goal that Ecuador scored was SO exciting, the whole stadium went crazy. Right before the goal, a drunk man jumped onto the fence that separates the field from the stands. When we scored, he started yelling and shaking the fence and he ended up falling. The fence caught him by the pant leg and so he was hanging upside down. But within seconds, he fell again and this time he fell all the way to the cement floor, face down. Between the fans' seats and the fence is a space about 10 feet wide and 20 feet deep. This is supposed to prevent fans from jumping onto the fence. But this man did it anyway. So after he fell about 25 or 30 feet, of course he didn't move. Two other Ecuadorian fans jumped down in order to help him and began giving him CPR.
I was worried that coming to Ecuador would make me have a more negative attitude toward the United States, but here is an example of why that hasn't happened. The Ecuadorian Red Cross took at least 10 minutes to get down there and begin helping the man. They did not have a plan put in place for situations like this and they were not prepared. Thanks to God, I saw the man move his arm so I know he didn't die on the scene. But it took entirely too long for him to get help. Also, the 2 fans that went down to help him flipped the man from his stomach to his back in order to give him CPR. This may have done damage, and if the Red Cross responded in time they could have taken care of him as they were trained.
A similar situation happened about a month ago. For some reason, a young European girl was shot here in Ecuador. She was taken to the hospital but did not receive treatment in time because they couldn't find her insurance or cash. So they delayed her treatment and she ended up dying--only because of money. I can't say for sure, but I just don't think things like this happen often in the U.S. These things made me appreciate all the regulations and trainings that are required back home.
While we were watching the fallen man get CPR, Uruguay scored! It was tied 1 to 1 and with a few minutes left, Ecuador got a penalty and Uruguay got to kick...and of course scored. So they advance to the World Cup. Ecuador has to win and also have really good luck in order to make it.
Another thing that bothered me--after the game a lot of the fans were REALLY mad. And when the team left the field the fans started yelling and cussing at them, flipping them off as if the players didn't do the best they could. I realize that soccer here is a HUGE deal, but the way that some of the fans reacted was really overboard and disrespectful. They threw plastic and glass bottles down on the press and at the players and also at other fans. It was too extreme for me and also dangerous! I thought it was going to be a really good night, but unfortunately with everything that happened it was kind of disappointing.
Ecuador definitely is still developing and sometimes it's hard to see and understand some of the stuff that happens here. But my spirits are still high and of course I'm still really happy to be in Ecuador!
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Things I May Never Do or See Again
This past week I took a trip with my Microfinance group and professor to visit some microfinance cooperatives. First we went to a community called Quisapincha. The three men who work at the cooperative were really excited that we were there to visit them! They work in a tiny little office, giving loans to the surrounding communities to support their work as farmers or artisans. The cooperative started 7 years ago with $40 and now gives loans up to $2,000. They two things they struggle with: 1) Capital--they can't get enough loan money in order to meet the demand of the communities 2) Many of their clients don't know how to sign their name, this causes legal issues. We went and saw some of the clients they support--leather maker, shoe maker and a group of women who raise guinea pigs. There are about 30 women and each have a little pin outside of their house. They raise the guinea pigs for 3 months and then sell them. Why? Because Ecuadorians eat guinea pigs!!! It's a delicacy. One day we were holding live guinea pigs, the next we were eating them--literally :) The conditions that this indigenous community lives in some may consider poor, but they seem to have what they need. They work very hard and end up with enough food to eat and seem to be happy. I used the bathroom in the owner of the cooperative's house--made of gray cement bricks, dark, without electricity and newspaper for toilet paper. I am really interested in working in this community for 6 weeks for my internship, trying to gather some statistics about the cooperative and then write a proposal to try and apply for some more capital. I also want to find a sustainable solution to the problem with the signatures. But to be completely honest, I am terrified of living the way the community does. They don't always have running water and electricity, bathing is for special occasions. They don't have phones in the house and the internet is a 30 minute bus ride away. I am going to visit a couple more cooperatives and then make a decision. It's tough! I want a challenge, I want to push myself but I'm just unsure of how far.
The second place we went was even further from anything modern. It was a community called Pilahuin. It is colder, also in the mountains. This community has a queseria (place to make cheese). Each morning and afternoon, the community members milk their cows (I milked a cow too!) and then bring the milk by horse or donkey to the queseria. The company keeps track of how much each family brings so that they can pay them respectively. I saw how they make the cheese, a very interesting process! While there, we also visited a school. They children were very excited to see us! Their classrooms reminded me of what I had seen in the Kansas History Museum, very dated. All the children wore boots, panchos and hats because of the weather. Their cheeks were shiny, redish purple because of the cold and wind. I loved the kids, so excited and so enthusiastic!
The way the people lived really amazed me. They ate the eggs from their chickens, drank the milk from their cows and lived off the land, nothing more. It was an eye opening week, so far from anything I have ever seen before.
The second place we went was even further from anything modern. It was a community called Pilahuin. It is colder, also in the mountains. This community has a queseria (place to make cheese). Each morning and afternoon, the community members milk their cows (I milked a cow too!) and then bring the milk by horse or donkey to the queseria. The company keeps track of how much each family brings so that they can pay them respectively. I saw how they make the cheese, a very interesting process! While there, we also visited a school. They children were very excited to see us! Their classrooms reminded me of what I had seen in the Kansas History Museum, very dated. All the children wore boots, panchos and hats because of the weather. Their cheeks were shiny, redish purple because of the cold and wind. I loved the kids, so excited and so enthusiastic!
The way the people lived really amazed me. They ate the eggs from their chickens, drank the milk from their cows and lived off the land, nothing more. It was an eye opening week, so far from anything I have ever seen before.
Little Land, Lots of Complexity
I arrived in Ecuador exactly 2 months ago today! And will be back in the States exactly 3 months from today. I feel like I have learned so much these past couple of months. Of course, I have traveled around the country a lot and have had a ton of fun. But I have also studied, read, observed and lived life here in Ecuador. While Ecuador is a REALLY beautiful country, and is currently working so hard to make important social, financial, political and environmental changes, it still is suffering a lot. Clearly, I don't know everything about this country and my few experiences here don't tell the whole story but I just wanted to tell some of the encounters I've had, things I've seen and felt.
My Spanish professor told me one day that the people of Ecuador are held together by saliva. Any conflict can tear them apart. Ecuador is 1/3 of the size of Texas, but its complexity is beyond belief!!
There are three main racial groups here in Ecuador--Indigenous people, Mixed people and African Ecuadorians. Quick history lesson--indigenous people lived here before the Spaniards came and colonized the country. One result (among hundreds) is the Mixed race that makes up the majority of the country. These people are of Spanish and Indigenous heritage and make up some 70% of the population. There are 2 Afro Ecuadorian communities in the country. Africans never worked here as slaves. The first inhabitants escaped a slave ship in Central America and ended up on the coast of Ecuador.
For some silly reason I expected Ecuador to be a somewhat united country. I knew they were suffering and I guess I sort of expected the struggling to unite them. I've found almost the opposite to be true. The racial tension makes me feel like I've traveled back in time 50 years. Mixed people are not seen with indigenous people. Afro Ecuadorians don't walk down the street with Mixed people. Interracial friendships are rare. Everyone is separated, physically and socially. The mixed race is the superior race and the blacks and indigenous are considered less. I've heard many negative conversations about the indigenous and Afro people. My friend's host mom will talk to her friends about the shades of their children's skin, because of course lighter is better. My host mom told me a story of how horrible it was one day when her old host student brought an indigenous boy over. I should have expected it, but the racism within this country amazes me. It's so ironic when people who suffer discrimination continue to discriminate against others. There's always a hierarchy.
Another aspect of life here that really bothers me is the machismo. I see this everyday in my own host family. My dad always sits at the table and waits for my mom to bring him food. If he needs anything, he expects my mom to get it for him. He won't get up to get sugar or milk or to put his dishes away, he simply expects/asks my mom to do it. He won't cook his own food or wash his own dishes, clean the house or do laundry. My mom also has to ask him for money. If she ever wants to buy anything, she has to ask his permission. One day a worker came to our house and my mom needed to pay him 25 cents. My host dad wasn't there, so that meant I had to pay him. My mom didn't have 25 cents! She does not have a credit or debit card or access to the family's bank accounts. If my dad doesn't hand it to her, she does not have money. Once again, I feel like I'm living in the U.S. in the 1950's or something. It's really frustrating to see women in the position that they are!
Above all, the most angering thing about the issues of race and sex is that I don't see changes in the near future. When I talk to my host mom about these issues, to her there isn't a problem. Maybe it's not ideal, but this is the way it is, and this is the way it will be. No one notices that Ecuadorians call anyone who looks Asian "Chinese", not recognizing the fact that they could be Tibetan, Korean or Japanese. But in the U.S., if an American mistakes an Ecuadorian for a Mexican, well that's an insult. When my dad tells my mom that she can't have money, she accepts that. Our host families struggle each month to pay the bills and will tell us about their serious financial problems, yet can't seem to understand why indigenous and black communities are struggling financially too. They continue in their ways.
As I'm sure you know, Ecuador is a relatively poor country. The GDP per capita is around $4,500 (1/10 of the U.S.). Hundreds of thousands of people sell to create an income for their families. In Quito, the streets are lined with tiny, tiny little stores. Women walk around the city all day with wooden trays selling gum and cigarettes. Markets are packed full of tiny little stores filled to the brim with clothes, food or other items. The sad part is that these hundreds of thousands of people are living the same life every single day. They wake up and go into the city, hoping to make enough to provide for their family. They sit in their store or at their stand ALL DAY LONG, until it gets dark. They go home to sleep and do it all over again. When I walk past these stores I see the people just sitting, waiting and this is what I don't understand. They are not reading a book, they are not playing cards, they are not looking at the newspaper or playing a game. They are sitting. They are not advancing themselves. Many have kids with them at these tiny stores. They are not able to go play in an open space. They are not coloring or reading books. How can a country expect to improve, to advance, to better the lives of their citizens when they are not educating themselves, not trying to move forward?
Every country has beautiful aspects and negative aspects too. As I said before, Ecuador is an amazing country and there are a lot of positive things happening here. But at the same time, I can't ignore all that I've seen and felt. Ecuador still has a long way to go.
My Spanish professor told me one day that the people of Ecuador are held together by saliva. Any conflict can tear them apart. Ecuador is 1/3 of the size of Texas, but its complexity is beyond belief!!
There are three main racial groups here in Ecuador--Indigenous people, Mixed people and African Ecuadorians. Quick history lesson--indigenous people lived here before the Spaniards came and colonized the country. One result (among hundreds) is the Mixed race that makes up the majority of the country. These people are of Spanish and Indigenous heritage and make up some 70% of the population. There are 2 Afro Ecuadorian communities in the country. Africans never worked here as slaves. The first inhabitants escaped a slave ship in Central America and ended up on the coast of Ecuador.
For some silly reason I expected Ecuador to be a somewhat united country. I knew they were suffering and I guess I sort of expected the struggling to unite them. I've found almost the opposite to be true. The racial tension makes me feel like I've traveled back in time 50 years. Mixed people are not seen with indigenous people. Afro Ecuadorians don't walk down the street with Mixed people. Interracial friendships are rare. Everyone is separated, physically and socially. The mixed race is the superior race and the blacks and indigenous are considered less. I've heard many negative conversations about the indigenous and Afro people. My friend's host mom will talk to her friends about the shades of their children's skin, because of course lighter is better. My host mom told me a story of how horrible it was one day when her old host student brought an indigenous boy over. I should have expected it, but the racism within this country amazes me. It's so ironic when people who suffer discrimination continue to discriminate against others. There's always a hierarchy.
Another aspect of life here that really bothers me is the machismo. I see this everyday in my own host family. My dad always sits at the table and waits for my mom to bring him food. If he needs anything, he expects my mom to get it for him. He won't get up to get sugar or milk or to put his dishes away, he simply expects/asks my mom to do it. He won't cook his own food or wash his own dishes, clean the house or do laundry. My mom also has to ask him for money. If she ever wants to buy anything, she has to ask his permission. One day a worker came to our house and my mom needed to pay him 25 cents. My host dad wasn't there, so that meant I had to pay him. My mom didn't have 25 cents! She does not have a credit or debit card or access to the family's bank accounts. If my dad doesn't hand it to her, she does not have money. Once again, I feel like I'm living in the U.S. in the 1950's or something. It's really frustrating to see women in the position that they are!
Above all, the most angering thing about the issues of race and sex is that I don't see changes in the near future. When I talk to my host mom about these issues, to her there isn't a problem. Maybe it's not ideal, but this is the way it is, and this is the way it will be. No one notices that Ecuadorians call anyone who looks Asian "Chinese", not recognizing the fact that they could be Tibetan, Korean or Japanese. But in the U.S., if an American mistakes an Ecuadorian for a Mexican, well that's an insult. When my dad tells my mom that she can't have money, she accepts that. Our host families struggle each month to pay the bills and will tell us about their serious financial problems, yet can't seem to understand why indigenous and black communities are struggling financially too. They continue in their ways.
As I'm sure you know, Ecuador is a relatively poor country. The GDP per capita is around $4,500 (1/10 of the U.S.). Hundreds of thousands of people sell to create an income for their families. In Quito, the streets are lined with tiny, tiny little stores. Women walk around the city all day with wooden trays selling gum and cigarettes. Markets are packed full of tiny little stores filled to the brim with clothes, food or other items. The sad part is that these hundreds of thousands of people are living the same life every single day. They wake up and go into the city, hoping to make enough to provide for their family. They sit in their store or at their stand ALL DAY LONG, until it gets dark. They go home to sleep and do it all over again. When I walk past these stores I see the people just sitting, waiting and this is what I don't understand. They are not reading a book, they are not playing cards, they are not looking at the newspaper or playing a game. They are sitting. They are not advancing themselves. Many have kids with them at these tiny stores. They are not able to go play in an open space. They are not coloring or reading books. How can a country expect to improve, to advance, to better the lives of their citizens when they are not educating themselves, not trying to move forward?
Every country has beautiful aspects and negative aspects too. As I said before, Ecuador is an amazing country and there are a lot of positive things happening here. But at the same time, I can't ignore all that I've seen and felt. Ecuador still has a long way to go.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Week 1 of the Semester
This was the first week of the regular semester. We finished the month of intensive Spanish. I got an A in the class! I can't believe 5 weeks have already passed! The next couple of weeks will be spent studying development and globalization in general. The week wasn't very eventful, but we did take a weekend trip to a cloud forest in San Miguel de los Bancos. We just stayed for one night in a really pretty hostel away from everything else. We swam in more waterfalls and a river and I also rode a donkey. We have another day trip planned to go up a volcano that is in a town about an hour and a half south of Quito. I am also planning a trip to Peru to visit my best friend who is studying there. I decided it would be my 21st birthday present to myself :)
Thursday, September 3, 2009
A Little Town Called Baños
I spent last weekend in a town southeast of Quito called Banos. It is a beautiful little town, with mountains, plenty of waterfalls and natural hot springs. My friends and I stayed in a really nice hostel and met a lot of people from all over the world who were also travelling. We made friends with a lot of people from Israel who had just finished with the military and also made friends with locals.
The first night we took a bus up to a volcano. It had a really great view of the town and the tour guides also told us a little bit of history. The second day we went repelling down waterfalls. It was the most adventurous thing I have ever done! First, we repelled down one that was about 40 feet. It was scary and awesome and I felt really accomplished when we were done. But...we weren´t done. The next one was 140 feet. I repelled down a little bit and then there was a cliff and I had no idea what was on the other side. I didn´t know until I was already going down on my rope. I looked down and could not believe it! But we all made it down safely and it was a really amazing experience, probably one of the best in my life!
The final day we went on a tour of the jungle. First we went to a monkey reservation. There were almost 30 monkeys and I held them! They climbed all over us and were not shy at all. It was really fun! Then we went into the jungle and saw lots of really cool things, trees, flowers, waterfalls, huge spiders but no crazy exotic animals. We finished the day at an indigenous community, which was also really interesting.
This week was my first week of the regular semester. All went well, and we are off again this weekend for another adventure!
The first night we took a bus up to a volcano. It had a really great view of the town and the tour guides also told us a little bit of history. The second day we went repelling down waterfalls. It was the most adventurous thing I have ever done! First, we repelled down one that was about 40 feet. It was scary and awesome and I felt really accomplished when we were done. But...we weren´t done. The next one was 140 feet. I repelled down a little bit and then there was a cliff and I had no idea what was on the other side. I didn´t know until I was already going down on my rope. I looked down and could not believe it! But we all made it down safely and it was a really amazing experience, probably one of the best in my life!
The final day we went on a tour of the jungle. First we went to a monkey reservation. There were almost 30 monkeys and I held them! They climbed all over us and were not shy at all. It was really fun! Then we went into the jungle and saw lots of really cool things, trees, flowers, waterfalls, huge spiders but no crazy exotic animals. We finished the day at an indigenous community, which was also really interesting.
This week was my first week of the regular semester. All went well, and we are off again this weekend for another adventure!
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Finally in Ecuador!!
It's taken me a few weeks to get settled in here in Quito, but I finally have a chance to update this blog! Everything is really great so far. I've learned a lot already, and am really happy here.
My host family is great. My parents are about 60 and 70. Then I have a sister who lives upstairs in our apartment. She has a husband and two kids, an 8 year old son and 1 year old daughter. I spend a lot of time with them also!
I have had three weeks of class so far. I feel like my Spanish has improved, thanks to my professors and my family. They are really patient with me, and answer all my questions.
Quito is a huge city, two million people. There is, of course, a lot of poverty and crime. But there are also a lot of really beautiful things too. The city is surrounded by mountains, and is almost always 70 degrees during the day and 50 degrees at night. The altitude was hard to get used to at first, but I think my body has adjusted.
I've been to the coast, swam in the ocean and went whale watching. It was amazing! I went to the top of one of Quito's mountains this weekend. The view was unbelievable. Here, soccer is such a huge deal. I went to a game the other night with some Ecuadorian friends, it was a lot of fun!
Next week my month of intensive Spanish ends. I have a 5 day break and then will begin the regular semester. During the break, I am going with some friends to a place called Banos. We will ride mountain bikes into the jungle, lay in hot springs, go to super cheap day spas, repel down waterfalls. I think it will be an awesome vacation.
This country is less than half the size of Texas but has mountains, the ocean and jungles. It's really cool.
Some random things about Ecuador: we cannot flush our toilet paper (the plumbing system is too old).........people here think peanut butter and jelly are a crazy combination.....whenever you meet someone here you must greet them with a kiss on the cheek........people here think it's chilly....they were sweaters on top of long sleeved shirts when it's 70 degrees!
Now that I've gotten the blog started I hope to update it more often! Hope you enjoy.
My host family is great. My parents are about 60 and 70. Then I have a sister who lives upstairs in our apartment. She has a husband and two kids, an 8 year old son and 1 year old daughter. I spend a lot of time with them also!
I have had three weeks of class so far. I feel like my Spanish has improved, thanks to my professors and my family. They are really patient with me, and answer all my questions.
Quito is a huge city, two million people. There is, of course, a lot of poverty and crime. But there are also a lot of really beautiful things too. The city is surrounded by mountains, and is almost always 70 degrees during the day and 50 degrees at night. The altitude was hard to get used to at first, but I think my body has adjusted.
I've been to the coast, swam in the ocean and went whale watching. It was amazing! I went to the top of one of Quito's mountains this weekend. The view was unbelievable. Here, soccer is such a huge deal. I went to a game the other night with some Ecuadorian friends, it was a lot of fun!
Next week my month of intensive Spanish ends. I have a 5 day break and then will begin the regular semester. During the break, I am going with some friends to a place called Banos. We will ride mountain bikes into the jungle, lay in hot springs, go to super cheap day spas, repel down waterfalls. I think it will be an awesome vacation.
This country is less than half the size of Texas but has mountains, the ocean and jungles. It's really cool.
Some random things about Ecuador: we cannot flush our toilet paper (the plumbing system is too old).........people here think peanut butter and jelly are a crazy combination.....whenever you meet someone here you must greet them with a kiss on the cheek........people here think it's chilly....they were sweaters on top of long sleeved shirts when it's 70 degrees!
Now that I've gotten the blog started I hope to update it more often! Hope you enjoy.
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